Tamata et l'alliance B Moitessier ( 169 )
Quatrième café de la matinée. Le puissant parfum des baguettes d'encens brulant dans la cabine pénètre mon esprit, et m'amène au loin. Et je revois la formidable et dernière colère de la mousson, il y a trois jours de cela,, au crépuscule; sous un ciel chargé de menaces comme à l'habitude. Plongé dans une sorte d'hypnose, une main sur la drisse de grand voile, j'hésitais à prendre encore quelques tours de rouleau. Sans préavis, le grain blanc à tonné dans un éclair, avec une soudaineté et une violence inouies, couchant presque le bateau en l'espace d' une seconde ou deux. J'ai entendu les grosses pierres du lest commencer à riper dans les fonds...J'étais trop loin de l'écoute pour avoir le temps de la filer en catastrophe, c'était la fin du grand voyage... et d'un seul coup les mats se sont redressés dans les hurlements du vent, la grand voile venait d'exploser, lambeaux de tissus volants comme plumes d' oiseaux mouche atteint de plein fouet par un coup de lance pierre, Marie Thérèse avait échappé d'extrême justesse au chavirage en échange d'une voile majeure. Il n'en restait que la ralingue, mais j'étais devenu deux fois vivant, empli d'une certitude nouvelle qui dilatais mon être. Dressé devant le mat, devant la mer, je contemplais avec les yeux d'un revenant et un amour tout neuf mon beau bateau qui poursuivait sa route dans la nuit sous foc et artimon, à la même vitesse. Puis le vent s'est infléchi peu à peu vers l'ouest … (1952)
Voilà, je me disais bien que j'avais lu cette fulgurance quelque part !
Tamata and alliance Moitessier B (p 169)
Fourth coffee of the morning. The powerful scent of incense sticks burning in the cabin enters my mind and brings me off. And I remember the great and final wrath of the monsoon, there are three days ago, at dusk, under a sky full of threats as usual. Immersed in a sort of hypnosis, one hand on the mainsail halyard, I hesitated to take a few laps of roll. Without notice, the grain white thundered in a flash, with a suddenness and violence unheard almost sunset the boat in the space of a second or two. I heard the big stone ballast begin shifting in funds ... I was too far from listening to have time to slip into a disaster, it was the end of great journey ... and once the mats were recovered in the howling wind, the mainsail had exploded, pieces of fabric flying like feathers of birds fly direct hit by a stone spear, Marie Therese had escaped extreme accuracy to capsize in exchange for a major sailing. There remained only the headline, but I now live twice, filled with a new certainty that dilates my being. Standing before the mast, facing the sea, I looked through the eyes of a ghost and a new love my beautiful boat continued on into the night under jib and mizzen, at the same speed. The wind was influenced little by little toward the west ... (1952)
Well, I told myself that I had read somewhere that dazzle!
I could here a google translation, even if you know what I think of the result!
So calm ?
I put here a google translation, even if you know what I think of the result !!!
Bernard Moitessier is one of these boody frenchmen I read long time ago, when many people was wondring if their lifes could escape to a specific model of pure consumption ; I think he drew a kind of dream support for many of those who wanted to see what was after the horizon .
Even if the translation is bad, I'm shure; Brandon, you will remember, and find pleasure in this simplicity …
And take care in youre road deliveries .
Delivery to Australia , Taveuni dreaming
the sun is about to set over the harbor of Noumea, while; nod to Moorea the Aremiti 4 just to go, still glossy spray. The SE wind blowing hard on his 25 nds Caledonia, and the Boeing 737 in Qantas had just a few somersaults and landing, clenching a few smiles in the audience.
Pembo, Brandon's friend greeted me with him for almost a week, to deceive my boredom (and maybe his?), Pending the departure of my plane. The Purchase, agreed on Monday to be forgotten or botched by Pat, the second owner of Taveuni Dreaming, while Brandon and my teammate, and another co owner, truck driver on monsters than 50 m, had the road back to Perth . I was fairly angry, especially in thinking that I had warned the marina an absence of 15 d when we came gently to a month ...
From time to kill, and a Pembo who tried the most generous in the world to forget the situation in "bloody frenchman. It could be that I find myself with a charter of Australians when I decided to do the crossing ... For I confess that I willingly go back!
A lot of ballads, then, to Sydney, its environs and its vessels, dotted with pubs and beer, as it is to warm up to 42 °.
Remarkable, these pubs, always with an assortment of at least 6 / 8 choices, often slightly conditioning, the walls are full of king-size TV screens, to track all kinds of sports, with many on the American football , handball, and cricket, but also all kinds of racing cars, Dragsters (motorbike too), greyhounds who chase after anything, and golfers who walk their ball from hole to hole in the gusts!
Sydney captivated me, especially its marine part, the down town bristling with modern towers that seem to all contest winners arch, but still leave room for a beautiful old (1850 1880), concrete with its many bridges (Pembo, with a little jealousy asked why the bloody Frenchmen had built this bridge viaduct in southern France?) and some beautiful buildings from the days of Charlie Chaplin. While they may not seem as ecologists that Americans, green spaces also have a special place and that the Australians and tourists do not hesitate to squat the time of a meal or a nap. There are people everywhere, and it is reminiscent of Paris in warmer and without the congestion or the smell of exhaust! Sails Muslim women (and girls) oranges and shaved monks, many Asians, but white shirt, skateboarding, skating, the iGadget dominate. Two Aboriginal painted and almost naked will be a riff of hell (voice and djridoo) a techno background while waiting for the ferry, tourism obviously, but very beginning!
This will only abos I believe, and Australians who I could ask myself do not say more, apart from a few shots already heard: poverty, aid, alcohol ... Another time.
Opera also deserve a next time, but this view, my first, let me dream and sat on the grass a good time, under the huge bridge, this city with 4M people around!
Once you leave the center by train (TGV old and outdated) or bus (with platforms for the disabled as states), we move quickly to small buildings of two and three storey detached home ( probably 75% of the habitat) of brick or concrete. There are here and there a few masterpieces of architecture, kitsch, you see of me, but all is calm flowered, and it breathes.
Rest all the marine, I borrowed part, by ferry (that catas) to migrate from Pembo. It was a sunny Sunday, and the harbor was full of spinnakers in regattas last training before the Sydney Hobart December 26 speckled But also all kinds of sails, the optimist skiffs to 18 ', typically real cars Australians. We zigzagged to 20 knots in the middle of it all, sometimes with a few serious blows brakes to avoid contact. The ferry is here as a bus corridor without specific to what I saw, and the result is a great slalom delusional enough to the uninitiated.
This morning, after having deposited at the airport, Pembo departed in a great wave of his hand, and this is simply that I discovered that my flight was suspended due to strike by firefighters Noumea-Tontouta Airport ... Fate did not hard, because the high commissioner requisitioned, fortunately for me, and the plane was leaving for a delay of 30 min.
Fabien, a friend of Moorea, moved here four years, to whom I entrusted the key of the boat to come and take a drink and to preserve a semblance of life to end in December learned that the move was Flight time; He démerdez as large, and is therefore dead body I found the boat, I am still and always a strong SE wind that sweeps the bay, discouraging yet moving city
There are cons by a beautiful sunny, 30 degrees and I want to post, air enters streams by deck hatches, a halyard hums, the whistling wind sometimes causing a small cottage soft, a ray of sunshine runs through the keyboard, I'm glad to be home.
Sunday, December 7, Noumea
A magnificent tree and beautifull name, in front of an old scool ( newcastle aus )
Ferry Taveuni dreaming (arrival)
It was probably the last night since he was only 70 miles (about 2300), we walked gently to 3 / 4 kts under pilot (the only appearance he bore!) At full speed when I have awakened Brandon to 23h for his shift, "it's not fast fast, but there's no problem, the stars shine to the horizon, the boat is on course, good quarter" good night ... "
I was asleep, but I heard Brandon call me, and felt the urgency in his voice, despite sleep, ensnare windproof jacket and mounted on the deck, opening the eyes of dense black hammered chips strobe in every direction, sometimes streaked with lightning bold and frank, no sound! Immediately saw that I was not dreaming at the head of Brandon, wrapped in the wax, the evidence, it rains more! The compass is to the north, the reverse of our route, and with lightning fast as I can see the first jib is almost completely rolled, the second big genoa to 1 / 3, the mainsail is cons, adopted by brake boom (something French I think).
It's too much to think about it is through the wind, near the cape, plus the P. .. hydraulic steering is no need in waiting for his daily ration of oil. So I try to run the jib on the electric winch: 10 times press the button for 2 seconds walk ... "We never do better," said Brandon! The wind began to openly raise the towers, 35. 45 kts, I am no longer able to estimate too high, too sudden. The boat goes down, without violence, we find ourselves at odds score, standing on the coaming cokpit, clinging to the winch to wind which are now above us, I feel I carry the boat, looking to the bottom shows the swirling water that bathes the deck already; meeerdeu!
My head does not know what to do, while pushing the legs and arms cling, it is like two rec trapped, they exchange smiles and grimaces, but at least thanks to their lightning crackle cursed currents, we see clear!
"The boom brakes, the brakes boom! "I know, but if I let go, I fall! (I took two harnesses Yet ...) The boom comes to break: break! Phew! The boat sits up and I showed him the main halyard and swoops foot mast for lowering as soon as the bitch is not brand new, it goes down better than I thought I Ferle with what I found, reefing and lazy jack, and returned to cokpit I do not think it lasted three minutes! Then it continues to plague the electric winch which eventually roll the genoa, keeping only ugly bag up, but impossible to start it properly with this wind. It starts the engine and observe what happens: 1.5 kts on a heading opposite to 30nds and 2.5 m as hollow We wait and send it off to Brandon.
Upon awakening, as the wind, he turned to a little weakening, it allows only negligible performance (1 N) and a lot of fatigue, I therefore propose to Brandon to divert to Newcastle, abeam, and 17 miles because I do not think one can draw the edges together, without the mainsail. Our only information about the port is that Brandon had been there once, but since it is an important ore port, I should be able to bring Tevauni and his crew wait for a rotation of winds and clear up the mess take a little rest.
The arrival has made engine and sails before the middle of tankers, the local press announcing the 33 per day! They come from around the world in search of coal, including China, and queuing as the cinema (or M Jackson) On the way he will leave the day to the last, yet in another storm!
The arrival was gray and slow, painful due to fatigue, a little too tight, because with a gps HS, another without information, it appeared that the former owner of the boat had also resumed his cards soon ... to the shelter of the great wall in front Newcstle it took to make the ritual of filling my water pump: removal of the compass, the inspection plate, unscrew the cap, put the funnels superimposed and good aim with oil red hydraulics, while the boat was turning in circles at idle and engine ... on the road tankers. I should have asked more expensive! Finally, they began to be run.
For VHF, the harbor master directed us to the depths of the city by the river to the brand new marina, along the quays, piers container cranes with their huge spaces for loading coal silos.
We did not really have time to make breakfast, the first authorities pointed, as an indiana jones with glasses, hats, socks, sandals Iraqi sand color, "the quarantine He emptied our fridge in large yellow plastic bags, and tons of products, including our garbage, asked questions. Then came the customs, three men and one woman in camouflage uniforms and blue caps. Some guys used to the last stand, part of the process, slow rolled and I could see while they traversed the bridge to get to us. Once given my passport, I left to fend for Brandon, because it's not because I managed to include a ten days Australians have no accent ... I'm busy dismantling what was left of boom, lover all the tips and bend the mainsail, miraculously intact, except two lost strips (pierced the veil).
Around noon, end of first episode, after an initial visit in depth the boat; Indiana prevailed even duck legs Deylperat of bunkering of Noumea. Two enormous yellow bags marked "quarantine" and a symbol as bad as nuclear!
Customs have tolerated the pub opposite the marina, on the other side of Parkway Boulevard as English, but no question of going further, their investigations are not finished ...
Some beers (their halves are great!) A hamburger steak frites excellent, but hard to swallow, fortunately we had time, and after a few more beers at the bar in learning the subtle rules of cricket and discussing our "adventures" with The bartenders at which the presence of customs officers had not escaped, it is left for later.
They returned to 16h, two women and two dogs more, blake for explosives, and white for the drug (or the opposite, I did not ask more), both wearing a little yellow surrroit custom marked in blue , and cute little black shoes with a small yellow patch also equivalent, I think I understand the customs of white gloves! These animals seemed in good shape, obedient, but a bit excited, first began their visit on the deck with his mistress which indicated a constant succession of places: matt, annex, vents, chests, then all the world is descended, the dog reappeared first, dragging his mistress at the end of the leash, and while the latter took root in the cockpit, the other wanted to jump on the pier, leaving the rest completely and finish the broth! We refrained from laughing, the teacher was upset. Second visit, the second dog, no swimming this time.
There they took out the screwdriver, the dogs are left to other paradise, it was installed in the cockpit; Brandon out the bourbon, two glasses, and it was generously arsouilles discussing weather, while the three archers were sweating in the hold to remove the stairs ...
18.30 a few pictures of the boat late, and we broke good friends after that Brandon has thanked them for their courtesy, I even added my assent bloody frenchman. We finished the bottle, because the two remaining glasses were sorry, then we went back to the hotel pub for dinner?
What a day ... I slept like a BB!
Three days later we set off again, down wind again, it felt good after that stop rotten. But they left a land heated to 43 °, and I realized, in the middle baguenaude tankers still at anchor that was not the new storm shelter ... end of the day saw the clouds grow on earth and the first flashes, and finally landed all at sea, then we at dusk. This time it was sound and lights, impressive but beautiful, the tanker had turned their anchor lights and Maneouvre, the sun was setting behind two large cloud masses, giving cons golden day on earth and these shadow boat . It was found under staysail only partially rolled, spinning under 8 kts I do not know how much wind is always there that blew the crest of waves. The wind blew 25 to 40 ° following the gusts, and when I turned to confirm the direction of the wind and waves, I felt like taking a radiator in FIG. We had to put the engine because the wind changed too, and with so little sail on the front over the lazy bar and the sea that rose to over two meters in front of new or almost no one did more road.
It took us 24 hours to finish, sails and engine, facing a southerly wind.
Botany Bay, which was a first stop Cook (again) is a huge bay and very closed to entry, rivers, full of boats (this is still a Saturday) at 10 m south of Sydney, we is still in town. On the left, a tanker we do face loading; on the left is the estate of cranes for loading container doors, then the tips of two parallel runways, in continuous service since the last Olympics. "Welcome to civilization Brandon says calmly" leaving the last two cold beers ... 38 °!
It was shifted to the bottom of the vast bay, the river ... and bridge!
Where are we going now?
Under the bridge, turn right and we got!
And ... it happening? ?
....
Must see ...
Small internal frustration?
Plus we approached, I thought so, but I know it always gives that impression, so I restrain myself with patience, but when the head of the mat was found at a yard of concrete deck; net was too short ! And I do not antennas. A fisherman from sabarque confirms dialect that is high tide, it is noon. It takes a dead body nearby, and everyone in his dark night for me will be the cockpit, a blanket, and tapivolle.
It has points back to 18h, as gently as possible in the middle, a slow moves punctuated by reverse was not bad. The Pechou, always in his line and his boat, with its side view confirmed, the thumbs up, it has left the wind carry, and it passed, the VHF antenna should be 10 cm of concrete.
Mission accomplished, slaps on the back, 10 minutes later we were tied!
And that's where I started waiting for my return date on Noumea ...
crossing
I lost my notes, it will be from memory and from Flight time I'll have to recall a beautiful waterway.
The day after my arrival in Noumea, I realized that since I could not dismount to my red, that meant giving the marina info does not watched channel 16, but 67, and it all began me swell, despite the efforts of goodwill I showed up with flight time flying his yellow flag (free practice, quarantine), I took a seat and went through the office for later secretary ultra nice, and some papers various issues, I had to wait 3 hours to board, then I was free ...
On the other side of catway (once it bears its name) there was Taveuni dreaming and Brandon. We talked about our sailing and the next day, since he seemed to wait an Australian skipper for sea again, I offered my services, ten, twelve days of paid nave about airplane food and properly paid: let's go!
The start was muscular, and I began to understand the weaknesses of all: the system of reefing at first proved a disaster: a unique piece circulating on the front and the back of the mainsail too long, friction. The sail is hoisted along the mat, and if you want to go further, it must go under the boom to slide the rest: a nonsense! So I took two reefs in a row, there was no more anyway! The boat proved faster, with 178 miles the first 24 hours. Comfortable and flexible else, short the next day when the sun returned, the wind once more reasonable and ditto the sea, we were on vacation, it remained essentially as to the end, punctuated by some relative calm but splendid. Birds every day, dolphins, a big scare (thankfully short) in one morning when landing in the cockpit I found one!
Brandon's father was taped in the balcony AV by a swarm of dolphins making a circus is not possible the first time that I see all ...
I had the first printing to a ride through the sky more than the sea In the morning the clouds were behind the day away, those we had seen at sunset, far had to close, they were exceeded, and so on. I began to think that movie where the guy and when he dreams go to a stroll among the cumulus, brasil, or arrizona drean I do not know. The whole journey has gone well, there was also a visitor of thunder over a deep blue sky, sailing without heat or mist. Few swells or waves. Crossed two large widgets far and the aircraft Noumea we confirmed that we were on the line. The boat suffered just being spent his entire life in Port marinas without really navigate around hundreds of birds, some of us follow or return several times a dorado dolphin more than one meter is literally come watch us we according to three feet for many 5 minutes
We spent 9 days out of time just playing with our planet, watching to lose the breath of beauty made simple, but so hard to convey ... may be the photos?
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